Abu Ghosh is an Arab village in the hills west of Jerusalem that has been famous for two things for centuries: the best hummus in Israel, and a remarkable record of coexistence with its Jewish neighbors. The village sits on the biblical site of Kiryat Yearim, where the Ark of the Covenant rested for 20 years before David brought it to Jerusalem: “So the men of Kiriath Jearim came and took up the ark of the Lord. They brought it to Abinadab’s house on the hill and consecrated Eleazar his son to guard the ark” (1 Samuel 7:1).
Hummus
Abu Ghosh has multiple hummus restaurants that draw Israelis from across the country, especially on weekends. The hummus is served in the traditional way: a broad plate, the hummus warm and smooth, topped with whole chickpeas, olive oil, and lemon, with fresh pita on the side. The restaurants open early and close when the hummus runs out, which can be by early afternoon on busy days. The competition between the village’s hummus restaurants is fierce and benefits the visitor enormously.
Crusader Church
The Church of the Resurrection (the Crusader Church) in Abu Ghosh is one of the best-preserved Crusader churches in Israel, built by the Hospitallers in the 12th century over a spring that the Crusaders believed was the biblical Emmaus, where the risen Jesus appeared to two disciples: “When he was at the table with them, he took bread, gave thanks, broke it and began to give it to them. Then their eyes were opened and they recognized him” (Luke 24:30-31). The church is now maintained by French Benedictine monks, and its acoustics are extraordinary.
Ark of the Covenant
The Church of Notre Dame of the Ark of the Covenant stands on the hilltop above the village, on the traditional site of the house of Abinadab where the Ark rested. A massive statue of the Virgin Mary holding the infant Jesus, atop the dome, is visible from the highway. The site, maintained by the Sisters of St. Joseph of the Apparition, offers panoramic views of the surrounding hills.
Visit with Hoshen Tours
Abu Ghosh combines great food with biblical and Crusader history. Hoshen Tours stops here for hummus and for the Crusader church, making it a perfect break on the road between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem.